General Ferret Information West Valley Wuzzles!
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History
Mustela putorius furo, the European domestic ferret, is a member of the weasel family — polecats, minks, skunks, ermine, etc. — and was domesticated before the cat, probably by the Egyptians. Ferrets first came to the U.S. over 300 years ago on ships and were used for rat control. There are no populations of "wild" ferrets in the USA. The North American Black-footed Ferret, which is an endangered species and just recently reintroduced to Wyoming, is a separate species and distantly related to the domestic ferret. Pet ferrets have no hunting instinct. They may chase and catch rodents, but don't know how to survive on them.

Basics
Ferrets are domestic in the truest sense of the word. Ferrets come in a variety of colors, with albino being the "purest" form of ferret, followed closely by sable (with raccoon mask), chocolate (brown), silver (white with sprinkling of black hairs and black eyes), cinnamon and patterns, such as mitts (white feet), panda (white head), badger (white blaze), and siamese (dark legs and tail). Male ferrets (hobs) can weigh from 2 to 4 pounds. Female ferrets (jills) are half the size of the males. Babies (kits) are considered adult at 6-7 months of age.

Personality
Ferrets are fun to watch. They like to play until they drop. Pairs are as easy to care for and are more fun to watch than a barrel of monkeys. (Ferrets need and want human interaction. We recommend a minimum of one to two hours play time daily.) They live between seven and ten years and are lively the whole time. If a ferret becomes lethargic for more than a day, something is wrong. Consult your veterinarian.

Food
Ferrets need a high protein diet consisting mainly of animal by-products rather than grain. The amino acids in vegetable protein are not utilized by a ferret's 3 hour digestive system. Low ash and low magnesium are important to a healthy diet as well. Quality dry kitten-formulated foods such as IAMS, Science Diet, Purina ProPlan, can be purchased at feed stores, a pet shop or your veterinarian's office (Avoid "grocery store" dry foods which are mainly corn meal or grain). Most ferrets seem to prefer shaped pieces of food rather than pellets such as certain chows and ferret foods (Moist or canned foods are inappropriate & can cause dental problems over time).

Treats
Ferrets like treats such as raisins, grapes (peel or cut in half) unsalted popcorn, peanut butter and an occasional veggie. Try different things out in very small quantities and remember this is a treat, not an alternate to quality cat food. Nutri-Cal™ is a vitamin supplement available from your vet. We use it for ill ferrets, mothers and their 4+ week old litters. It can be a treat for healthy and active ferrets as well. Do not feed your ferret dairy products; chocolate or caffeine products. These cause diarrhea.  Ever curious, ferrets may beg for these, but what doesn't bother our system can kill a ferret.

Housing
We suggest that you keep your ferret caged (one that is both roomy and well ventilated. PLEASE , never house a ferret in an aquarium) or confined to a single room while no one is home. This protects the ferret as well as your house. Ferrets are inquisitive, fearless, and capable of getting into places that you never imagined. If their head can fit, then the body can follow. Begin ferret proofing your home by keeping potted plants out of their reach. Ferrets love to dig in dirt. Ferrets cannot climb as well as cats, but they can jump short spaces, get a grip on something, and either pull themselves up or pull objects over and down. Trash cans, tablecloths, laundry baskets, glasses, etc. Ferrets are not destructive, but they do like to toss pillows off sofas, steal socks, and hide things. Sometimes they think the sock on your foot is fair game so watch your toes!

Hygiene
Linatone® or Ferretone™, available at pet and feed stores, is good as a treat and to occupy the ferret as you clip nails. Seat your ferret belly up and pour a little on its stomach. Show it to him, and while he's licking it up, clip the nails on all four feet to within a little bit of the quick. (the pink part of the nail) Do not cut the quick as this may result in bleeding. (If you do cut into the quick, cornstarch and water will stop the bleeding).

Baths are recommended at least once a month but no more than once a week. Any baby shampoo will do. Try to keep it out of their eyes and nose. (Ears should be checked and cleaned, if necessary, with a Q-Tip™ and hydrogen peroxide or mineral oil.) When flea season arrives, we suggest that you use a formula for kittens that contains Pyrethrins. Never dip a ferret.

Training
To discipline your ferret, a stern NO with a tap on the nose is usually sufficient. If biting or nipping is a problem, there is a product in pet shops called Bitter Apple that tastes bad to pets and helps teach them. Spraying it into corners where the ferret is not supposed to potty can sometimes work, but ferrets have poor eye-sight. If they can't see the litter box right off, any corner is fair game. We suggest you handle your ferret for five minutes after it awakens (the ferret may shiver right after waking) Place him back in the cage to use the litter box, and then let him out to play, or use newspaper in the corners. Use plain clay or unscented litters. Perfumes can cause reactions in ferrets or make them not wish to use the litter box. Do not use wood shavings as litter or bedding (the dust can cause respiratory problems. Ferrets can also be trained to use newspaper). Unlike cats, ferret urine does not have a strong odor and if stools are left to dry, can be picked up and tossed in the trash the next day. The quantity is quite small.

Health
Ferrets can catch and give the common cold. Plenty of rest and water is the cure, but sometimes a trip to the vet is needed to prevent complications. (Ferrets are susceptible to pneumonia. Watch for reduced activity, one sure sign of any illness). Protect your ferret from temperature extremes. Over 90 degrees and the ferret should be in shade with lots of ventilation and water. If a ferret becomes dehydrated, mix Karo syrup, honey or Linatone with water, get the animal to drink and then to a vet. Ferrets can also get heartworms from mosquitoes. (See your vet for a heartworm preventative.) Please house your ferret indoors for fewer problems and healthier pets.

Vet Care
Ferrets require a Canine Distemper shot annually. Canine Distemper is 100% fatal in ferrets, so this is a serious health concern. One shot will usually do for a year, but if the ferret has not been on a regimented vaccine program, you may wish to consider following the first shot with a booster in three to four weeks. The important thing to tell a vet unfamiliar with ferrets is that a canine based vaccine can NOT be used. (Galaxy ™ D, a killed vaccine, is widely accepted for use in ferrets. There is also a ferret specific distemper vaccine — FERVAC® — available. If your household includes a cat or cats, your vet may also recommend obtaining a feline distemper vaccination).

Two rabies vaccines have been licensed by the U.S.D.A. for use in ferrets. Even so, there is no guarantee that if your ferret bites someone that he will not be decapitated for testing in some communities. Brain tissue is tested for the virus. This is, in most cases, because non-US studies of the shedding period in ferrets for rabies have not been accepted in a number of states and because the first vaccine ( IMRAB®) was only approved for use in ferrets in late 1990/early 1991. It has been used in cats and dogs for years. A ferret receives 1 ML dose under the skin once a year. A ferret can be vaccinated as early as three months of age.

Alter your ferrets. The smell of an intact male is usually not desirable for a household pet. If a female is not brought out of heat, she can easily develop aplastic anemia or an infection and die. If you do get an intact ferret, it should be altered no earlier than six months of age to ensure that it's had time to develop physically. Having a ferret spayed/neutered will not alter its personality. It just makes it more social and minimizes most odor. As long as ferrets are fixed, it does not matter what combinations of sexes you keep.

Descenting is not necessary for a ferret, it only adds the trauma and expense of an operation. Ferrets use their scent glands only when startled or threatened, then it's like a bad "passing of wind" and airs out in five minutes. (A bath will eliminate any musky smell from their fur. In most areas of the country, ferrets sold in pet stores are usually already neutered. Most are also descented.)

Cautions
Be careful where you sit/walk when the ferret is out. He might be under a pillow, blanket, pile of laundry, etc. Sleep sofas and recliners are places where ferrets can get caught in the mechanics. Block off refrigerators, washers, dryers and dishwashers. Ferrets can easily slip under them. Ferrets have no sense of direction in large areas. DO NOT allow them outdoors unless on a leash and under close supervision. Swallowed items are very dangerous. Some ferrets chew latex rubber. (Rubber toys designed for babies are usually safe. Ferrets enjoy "squeak" toys, but be sure the "squeaker" is not the "inserted" type. Those built right into the rubber are safe , but check all toys periodically for signs of chewing. If so, discard it immediately). Some ferrets will chew and ingest certain types of cloth. Any of these items can cause an intestinal obstruction (and an expensive removal operation - if it's discovered in time. Also, watch for anything made of Styrofoam, like the "peanuts" in packaging or the foam rubber in cushions).

Thinking of Giving Away Your Ferret?
Is it really necessary for you to give up your pet for adoption? Here's a checklist of situations we've commonly run across that, with patience, compromise and a bit of effort, have allowed people to keep their pets.  Also, please consider the age of your pet. While many books indicate ferrets live 8 to 10 years, the reality in the United States today is that ferrets live, on average, 5 to 6 years. They are considered geriatric at 5. If your pet is approaching or over 5 years, few people will want to take on potential vet bills. While large vet bills are relatively rare with ferrets and most of their illnesses are medically manageable, the age issue will come up with any potential adopter or with any shelter. We strongly recommend you rethink giving up older ferrets. If you've had them through their "good" years, they ask for very little in the way of care and time in their "older" years. For many people, the older years can be a ferret's best with their owner as the intensity of their youth is behind them and at long last they may welcome the time spent on your lap in front of the television.

Landlords/Parental Homes/Roommates - By far the most common reason people call to give up their ferrets is the owner's new rental facility will not allow pets. Quite often rental clauses include this provision because of potential damage - all too common with chewing puppies or cat urine. Noise is often a concern. Frequently, these concerns are can be alleviated by a) explaining that what you have is a no-noise, caged pet, similar to a hamster, which does not run the house uncontrollably; or, b) by making an additional security deposit. Ask as you are looking for a new rental - there are a number that will accommodate small, quiet pets.

If it's your parents or a roommate with the "problem" - you need to consider how long your situation will last. If you have a roommate for one year, is it reasonable for them to ask that you give up your pet of four years? If you are going to be living with your parents temporarily, would they consider allowing you to keep your ferret if it is only kept in one room of the house? If "odor" is the issue, consider purchasing a HEPA air filter. Single room filtering systems are not expensive and may allow you to keep your pet with you.

Allergies/Pregnancy - Frequently, allergists and obstetricians will arbitrarily advise patients to "get rid of the animals" in their household. In either situation, this might be an overreaction! First, is the allergy truly being caused by the ferret or by it's bedding/litter/food? Ferrets are fur-bearing pets meaning they do not produce significant amounts of dander that "hair" bearing animals such as cats, most dog breeds and people produce. If dander is the culprit, then a ferret can be a fine alternative to the more common pet as most people find it is "hypo-allergenic."

If it is the bedding that is causing the "problem," are you using dust producing bedding such as pine or cedar shavings? First, ferrets should never be kept - long-term - with wood shavings as bedding. Certain woods can be toxic while the dust produced by these types of bedding can be damaging to your pet's respiratory system over time. Switch to all cotton bedding material such as T-shirts or receiving blankets (man-made fibers can "hold" odor even after washing). Alternatively, use newspaper in cage trays. Wash the bedding and your ferrets more frequently! Ferrets are notorious for stirring up dust under your furniture and carrying it to their bedding. That could very well be what you are reacting to - with your ferret just being the innocent "carrier." As any allergist will tell you: vacuum frequently. If you have carpeting, get rid of it! Nothing is more difficult to keep clean and hygienic than carpeting.

There is also the possibility of having desensitizing vaccinations. Speak with your allergist or consult with another if yours is unfamiliar with ferrets.

As for pregnancy: ferrets do not carry toxoplamosis which may be passed to pregnant women when they change an infected cat's litter box. That is the principal health concern today. If you are still concerned, get someone else to change the litter box. Don't put your child on the floor to play where animals have been or where you walk in shoes if "hygiene" is a concern (consider what you are bringing into your house on your shoes! This is what play-pens were designed for!). Never allow ANY animal alone with a child. With common sense pets and children can get along wonderfully! Don't deny yourself the companionship of your pet, especially if it has lived with you for any length of time, just because of pregnancy!

Having an allergy or a baby should not require you to get rid of a loving pet. It's also a poor example of responsible behavior for any children in your home!

No Time - We can't solve the "no time" issue for you, but we can suggest you consider the following before deciding to adopt out your pet. Is the situation temporary? Maybe you have had to take a part-time job for a few months and you can't play as frequently with your ferret. Few situations last forever. A good rule of thumb - what is older or longer - the pet or the situation? Remember, one of the reasons people keep pets is to alleviate the stresses of life. Look to streamline their care and you'll have more time to spend with them when you do have some free time.

Perhaps you have an "only ferret" and a companion will shorten the time needed to entertain your ferret. Ferrets can not spend long, periods of time in a cage. First, they become bored; and, second, when they are let loose, they can become even more "hyperactive" than normal from all their pent-up energy. Having a buddy can sometimes work off that energy freeing you to sit and relax watching them rather than having to participate in those strenuous ferret chase games.

Consider changing their living arrangements. Here at the shelter, our ferret-care time requirements were cut significantly when we eliminated the cages in the shelter and allowed the ferrets their very own room to play in. Cages are a lot of work to clean and maintain, no matter how well designed. A small, ferret-proofed room (even a bathroom) can make a wonderful "cage" that is easier to keep clean and gives your pets more space and stimulation. If you can't close a door, a 24 inch high barrier made of plywood or pegboard can hold back just about any ferret.

Behavioral Situations - So your ferret "nips" or "poops all over." Getting rid of the animal will not solve the problem - both of which can be overcome with just some basic re-education - yours and your ferrets! Refer also to the "no time" section above. Sometimes behavioral problems occur when ferrets are left in their cage too much. Ferrets vary in their activity level due to age or simply to their personality type (ferrets can be active; very active; hyper-active; or warp-level active). Lock an active creature in the equivalent of a closet and watch out when they do get loose!

Any behavioral issue can be dealt with as long as it's done through positive reinforcement rather than through punishment, and if it's dealt with consistently. Erratic behavior on your part will only further confuse your pet. Keep in mind you are dealing with "someone" who cannot communicate with you and with whom you can only communicate by example. Ever play charades? Try playing it with ear plugs, without words, and without hands - strictly use facial expressions and forget the concept of "right" or "wrong." See how long it takes to get your message across to someone!

Nipping - We have only ever met one "biter" show up in the hundreds of ferrets that have come through the shelter. That ferret had a history of abuse and never has been able to get over trying to bite any hand that comes directly at it's face. It has always been able to be picked up - - - it was just afraid of a hand coming at its nose. Once we "learned" how to approach her, the "problem" was eliminated. Nipping is a learned behavior. It is either caused by fear or a lack of knowledge (again, both on the part of the ferret and its handlers). First, let's cover the latter situation.  Ferrets play rough with one another. Their idea of a good time is to drag each other around by the scruff of the neck. Most often with kits, that is precisely what they are trying to do - grab your "neck" and haul you around. Unfortunately, we operate on touch - not on teeth! Therein lies the difference between our species.  When teaching a ferret not to nip, slapping, slamming or otherwise administering punishment will not work. In some animals, it can even provoke stronger, defiant reactions. Remember, the ferret is trying to play and you are trying to hurt it. This is NOT the basis for developing a long term relationship! You can't talk this over so you need to firmly but gently explain. How? By playing it's game.  The game happens to be "I'm the boss and can drag you about." They hiss, they hop and they grab and drag. You need to say "NO," and hold them and continue to say no each time they try to bite. NEVER put a ferret down after it nips! You have just let them "win." And not just because they want to be let go - but because you gave them control. That's the game. Who "controls" whom. It's setting up a hierarchy, and if you "give-up", they've won that round. Do it often enough and the ferret is left in charge while you are the underling!

Fear nipping is a different situation. At some point in its history (either at the ferret farm, along the way to or at the pet shop, or when you first handled it) it became afraid. It may have nipped and someone hurt it. Pain creates an exceptionally powerful memory (Consider touching a hot stove). Unlearning that reaction can take a lot of time. Worse, you probably don't know the "triggering" event. That's what you need to try to discover first.  Analyze those situations when the ferret tries to nip. Is it when you try to pick it up? Are you "blind-siding" the animal? Ferrets instinctively fear anything that swoops down from above thousands of years ago their enemies were hawks. Don't come at it from behind like a swooping hawk!  Keep in mind, some ferrets only nip when they need to get down to use the litter box! Others may nip after you've used a certain kind of soap, perfume or if you smoke. Ferrets' sense of smell is highly sensitive. Often, certain scents, (or even certain sounds they find extremely annoying or even "painful") will trigger a nipping reaction. This is about the only way a ferret can communicate with a human. (We have seen former nippers retain this ability to "alert" us to something bothering them by furious licking behavior. Remember, these little critters do not vocalize their needs or desires like a cat or dog. They are very "tactile.") Try a different soap or "unscented" laundry detergent. With annoying noises, eliminate the squeak toy that precipitates any nipping behavior. And never allow "cute" nipping! Trying to teach an animal an allowable "degree" of nipping behavior is next to impossible! You've just made what is a simple yes or no task into an extremely difficult one.  With some careful observation and some changes on your part, you should be able to overcome almost any "nipping" problems and develop a happy relationship with your ferret. If you are dealing with a very high strung, overly energetic animal (yes - there are some ferrets that are far more "hyper" than others!); then, the nipping may occur when you are trying to hold it and it wants to run. Understand that you will not change it's desire to run around! All you can do is learn to compromise the point and just enjoy watching rather than holding your ferret. Ferrets are NOT lap pets. The ones who do enjoy sleeping on someone (they almost never just sit unless contemplating their next move!) are extremely rare and usually elderly. Sitting still for a ferret is not a learned behavior. If they do sit quietly, it is just part of their innate personality.

Could your ferret be blind? Don't automatically discount blindness or deafness. Ferrets are skilled at hiding such shortcomings as they don't see very well to begin with and are quite selective in their hearing. We have a deaf ferret that is also blind in one eye. We swear he hears the refrigerator door where his treats are kept or his sense of smell is extraordinary! Learn to speak to or tap the floor nearby before attempting to pick the ferret up to allay any fears.

Litter boxes - Ferrets are, by their nature, very clean, latrine animals - meaning they prefer to use certain selected sites for their toilet. Additionally, ferrets have small, fast digestive systems. Like children, they almost always need to relieve themselves immediately upon awakening. Ferrets also prefer to "back into a corner" where they can be sure something isn't going to "attack" them while they are otherwise occupied.  Unfortunately, young ferrets are all too often taken from their mothers too early. Like cats, mother ferrets with good litter habits will train their kits for you. If mom didn't or couldn't, you get to fill the void in their education. Complicating the situation is the too frequent habit of pet stores to house young ferrets in their litter box. By this we mean not maintaining a separate litter box for the animals or just putting shavings in a cage and placing several animals inside. Since there is no "special" spot for them to go, they consider everything and everywhere the latrine. Small wonder you get them home and they go "anywhere" they are standing.

Armed with these facts about ferret behavior and a little background on the "root" of poor litter box habits, almost any problem can be overcome. All you need is patience, understanding, and a bit of consistent effort. Remember, they aren't trying to be "bad." They don't know any better!

First - NEVER slap or yell or stick their nose in "it" or otherwise hurt a ferret for "going" in the "wrong" place. All you are trying to tell them from their point of view is that "going" is bad. It's too far a leap of logic for them to connect WHERE with WHAT. All they will "learn" is that pooping equals yelling or hitting or the worst: sticking their nose in "it." Try that on your children and see what happens! They land up "hiding" their "mistakes."

Second - ALWAYS insist that your ferret use it's litter box or papers in their cage before you let them come out. If you do not cage your ferret, during this critical retraining period, consider using a cage or confining your ferret in a small area like a bathroom. (A frequent problem with young ferrets is giving them too much room, too soon. It would be the equivalent of letting a baby lose in a stadium. They would never find the bathroom again even if they wanted too. It's just all to overwhelming).

Third - when they do "go" in the wrong place, only "discipline" them immediately following the behavior. Don't catch up with them a minute or more later, "show" them what they "did" and lock them in their cage as "punishment." You can certainly put them in their cage immediately following a "nip" or if they "go" outside their litter box, but it has to be IMMEDIATE. They will never connect the two events if they are not simultaneous! One and one is just that to a ferret - they will never connect the two.

We hope you can find a way to keep your ferrets. They can be the best of pets with just a bit of effort on your part.
 

No Politics, Or No Principles?
[reprinted from the August 1994 issue of The INDEPENDENT VOICE]

Politics isn't always about power: it can also be about policies, which means more than just color and confirmation standards.

It means principles, and commitment to the well-being of ferrets themselves. Hundreds of ferrets are needlessly sacrificed each year for rabies testing because of bad laws. Thousands are consumed and sacrificed in laboratories.

Thousands more are euthanized by animal control agencies because of bad laws, lack of communication between owners and public health authorities, and failure of local ferret clubs to give adequate support to shelter/rescue groups.

More die because "ferret mills" sell under-age, surgically butchered ferrets to pet stores who know nothing about their special needs and sell them as "disposables" to anyone who walks in the door.

Others die prematurely of genetic predispositions to certain cancers because of irresponsible breeding practices, causing grief and heartbreak to their owners. In five or ten years, if our little fuzzies continue to grow in popularity, the animal control facilities in this country could become charnel houses for unwanted ferrets.

The legacy of politics in the ferret community has traditionally been a sorry one dominated by power struggles and vanity wars within a self-selected "elite" of big breeders.

There is a lot more at stake here, at least for people who really love ferrets, than convertibility of show points. And things can't change for the better unless people who care about it work together and set an example. For ferret clubs, that means outreach to and communication with local animal control authorities, humane societies, pet stores, and the general public, as well as stronger support for rescue work.

For owners, it means responsible breeding and spay/neutering practices, and providing the best possible care and protection to our own ferrets. For everyone, it should mean taking a principled stand against ferret mills that churn out maimed, genetically defective weasels to feed research laboratories and pet-store chains.

Unscrupulous organizations that allow ferret mills to sponsor championship rings or accept other valuable considerations from them are sending the wrong message to ferret owners and the general public. By dismissing ethical standards as "politics," they contribute to the problem instead of the solution.

 [reprinted from the August 1994 issue of The INDEPENDENT VOICE]
 

Ferrets As Pets
Ferrets are domesticated animals, cousins of the weasels, skunks and otters. (Other relatives are minks, ermines, badgers, black-footed ferrets, polecats and fishers). They are NOT rodents. It is believed that ferrets were first domesticated by the Egyptians some several thousand years ago. Their behavior and personality is somewhere between cats and dogs (although they are much smaller in size). Some are cuddly and others are more independent. They vary a lot, just like other pets. Average size for a male is around 45cm in length and weigh between 1.2-2.3kg compared to 35cm in length and 500gms-1.2kg for females. FERRETS WILL NOT SURVIVE IN THE WILD. They are likely to die from dehydration or starvation within a few days.

Positive Aspects Of Ferrets
Extremely playful with both humans and other ferrets; inquisitive; remarkably determined; able to be trained eg to use kitty litter; very social; sleep for great lengths of time. Most love to go places with you on a harness and can be kept in a decent sized cage (refer to Housing).

Negative Aspects Of Ferrets
Ferrets are higher maintenance than dogs or cats. They need a great deal of your time and attention; can also be quite mischievous and get underfoot. They also love to dig up plants and scratch at carpet and whilst being a common trait, this can vary from one ferret to another. They can also be expensive pets: young ferrets are accident prone and older ones may suffer from one of many illnesses. If you can't afford large vet bills, then don't buy a ferret!

Nipping
Ferrets must be taught not to nip! A well handled pet should not be vicious, however, bites can be expected in rough play, over excitement or if frightened. To discipline your ferret, a sharp tap on the nose and an angry "NO" usually works. Remember, immediate discipline is essential and needs to be reinforced.

NOTE: Young children and ferrets can be very excitable and need to be supervised while playing together. Ferrets usually get along with cats and dogs, however, supervision is recommended. Beware of terriers and aggressive dogs, especially when walking your ferret. Always gradually introduce new pets to existing family pets.

Keeping Ferrets
Ferrets are happiest in pairs or in small groups, especially young ferrets as they are very demanding. Adults tend to be calmer and can be more suitable for first time ferret owners. Most desexed ferrets will get on with others; new ferrets will require time to settle into the household. When buying a ferret, look for bright, clear eyes, healthy skin, unbroken whiskers, soft coat and a curious, alert attitude. Inspect the conditions of the ferrets environment for good hygiene and don't buy a ferret if the seller is not prepared to take the ferret back after a reasonable period, if you change your mind.

Housing
IMPORTANT: HEAT STRESS: ferrets must be kept in a cool area or they can quickly die of heatstroke in summer.

Ferrets can be happily housed in a cage either outside under the verandah or balcony, or they can have the run of the house or a spare room. However, they need socializing every day for a couple of hours. Remember: ferrets that are left in cages can become unsocial, nippy and hard to handle or they can become depressed.

CAGE: A simple metal frame with a minimum size of 2m2 or larger with 1.75cm2 (1/2 inch) wire mesh (depending on size of smallest ferret) and a solid weatherproof overhanging roof. This will comfortably accommodate 2 ferrets. A door will be required to access the sleeping box and litter tray. The cage can be divided into levels using wire mesh or shade cloth and flexible pipes to link levels provides more space and activities. Bird aviaries with a solid floor also make excellent homes for groups of ferrets. Levels, ramps, piping, hammocks..... the possibilities are endless in accessorizing the aviaries.

SLEEPING BOX: Plastic or wood (weatherproof) with easily accessible entrance hold. Bedding can be old towels, clothes, blankets etc., as long as they are clean. Wood shavings and sawdust are not recommended.

FEEDING AREA: A section of cage away from the litter tray with a solid floor that prevents food dropping through the wire. Solid heavy bowls for food and water or a water bottle.

LITTER TRAY: Basic cat litter tray situated in a corner filled with cat litter, sand or garden dirt. Most ferrets can learn to use the tray, however, there can be times when frightened or excited ferrets have occasional accidents. To reinforce the use of the tray, make a fuss over the ferret when used properly and correct the ferret when it backs into the wrong corner.

Ferret Proofing Your Home
"Ferret Proofing" involves blocking off all holes in the house, making cupboards inaccessible, blocking access under and at the back of fridges and other appliances. Watch out for heaters and air conditioning ducts. Openings of 4cmx4cm and larger can be blocked/covered with wood or wire mesh. Fragile objects should be out of reach, pot plants need to be raised or protected with mesh and big pebbles. Ferrets can get into lounge chairs, kitchen bins, baths, toilet bowls, drawers from underneath etc. You name it, they can get into it!

Toys
Cat toys work very well, though you need to be sure they don't have any small, removable parts or foam stuffing which might cause blockages if swallowed. Plastic balls, with or without bells, work well. Soft vinyl or rubber is okay, but NOT the spongy kind - it is too easily shredded and swallowed. Cat or dog squeaky toys are good if they are tough enough to stand up to the chewing and it helps if they are easily "squeaked". Lengths of flexible pipe (air conditioning or agricultural pipe - available from hardware stores) are especially popular as tunnels.

Basic Health Care
Most ferrets enjoy having a bath. Use baby shampoo or herbal pet products and wash your ferret about every two weeks if needed. Frequent bathing can cause dry skin. Flea products that are kitten and puppy formulated are safe (e.g. Di Flea for Kittens, Frontline and Program). Do not use formulas made for adult cats or dogs.

Ferret nails grow rapidly and need regular clipping. Beware of the vein running inside the nail which is easily visible and clip carefully using cat or human nail clippers. Ears need regular cleaning - using moist cotton balls. Ear cleaning products for cats and dogs e.g. Leo Ear Cleaner, helps prevent ear mites. Ilium Ear Drops treats the problem as well.

IMPORTANCE OF DESEXING: Desexing is a must, especially for females. We recommend desexing from around six (6) months of age. A female (Jill) will come into season about September and will remain in season until she is desexed, mated or receives an injection from a vet to bring her out of season. Unless she is brought out of season there is a real danger of the ferret dying from anemia! A male (hob) also comes into season around the same time and can lose up to 40% of his body weight. This is normal for a male and there is no need for concern. There will be a color change (yellowing) as well. You will also notice that his odor becomes very strong, unpleasant and overpowering and no amount of bathing will eradicate it. He may also become quite aggressive and try very hard to escape his cage in search of a mate.

VACCINATIONS: All ferrets need to be vaccinated against canine distemper once a year. We recommend the use of Fervac-D yearly.

WORMING: Ferrets are susceptible to the same worm parasites as cats and dogs e.g. roundworm, hookworm, whipworm and tapeworm. Routine treatment i.e. six monthly with either Felex Plus Paste for cast or Drontal Cat Wormer is recommended. To prevent heartworm, use Heartgard - 68µg tablet per ferret per month. Oral Ivomec works the same way and protects against intestinal worms (except tapeworm). It can also prevent sarcoptic mange (skin mites) and ear mites. Consult your vet for dosage.

WARNING: Human Flu Virus can be caught by your ferrets and vice versa. If caught, keep animal warm and monitor food and water intake. If ferret has nasal discharge, seek veterinary advice as antibiotics might be needed.

Feeding Your Ferret
The food needs to have at least 32% animal protein (animal products should be listed first in the ingredients list). Ferrets have a short digestive system preventing them from absorbing vegetable proteins. Companions Choice Ferret Biscuits are recommended by our society and are sold by the society.

Recommended dry cat biscuits are: IAMS, HILLS SCIENCE DIET and WHISKAS PROFESSIONAL FORMULA - available from most pet stores and vets. Ferrets under 3-4 years, should be fed kitten or growth formulated biscuits but older ferrets may develop kidney problems from too much protein and should be switched to an adult cat version. Soft/canned pet foods are not hard enough to rub plaque off teeth and can assist in tooth decay.

DAILY - fresh water at all times! Fresh cooked chopped meat (fatty is better than lean), lamb, beef, chicken etc. especially chicken or turkey. High quality cat biscuits (as recommended above).

WEEKLY - Raw chicken wings or necks to clean teeth. An egg yolk (no egg white) with a few drops of Omega 3 oil or vegetable/nut oil, fruit and vegetables if your ferrets like them.

TREATS - Lactose reduced cow's milk (Pets Own Puppy or Whiskas Cat Milk) can be given as a treat. Ordinary cow's milk causes diarrhea and soy milk can interfere with the absorption of calcium from food. Nutripet, a caramel flavored supplement from pet shops. This can be used to keep a ferret calm if they are upset or keep them still at the vet. DO NOT give it regularly as it is high in sugars.

NEVER - dairy products, chocolate, fish-based biscuits, cooked bones, salt, dried coconut, dog's leather hide chews, sausage mince.

Ten Things A Ferret Asks Of Its Keepers
1. My life is likely to last 6-9 years. Any separation from you will be painful for me. Remember that before you buy me.

2. Give me time to understand what you want from me.

3. Place your trust in me. It is crucial for my well being.

4. Don't be angry with me for long, and don't lock me up as punishment. You have your work, your entertainment and your friends. I have only you and your toes.

5. Talk to me sometimes. Even if I do not understand the words, I understand your voice when you are speaking to me.

6. Be aware that however you trust me, I will never forget.

7. Remember before you punish me that I have jaws that could easily crush the bones of your hand, but I have chosen not to bite you that hard.

8. Before you scold me for being "uncooperative", "obstinate" or "sad", ask yourself if something might be bothering me. Perhaps I am not getting the right attention or I am sick.

9. Take care of me when I get old; you too will grow old.

10. Go with me on difficult journeys. Never say, "I can't bear to watch it" or "Let it happen in my absence". Please never say, "Let the vet do it". Everything is easier for me if you are there.
 
 

Hi, I'm your ferret.
I'm (not really) sorry about the poop in the corners.
I'm (not really) sorry about making holes in the sofa.
I'm (not really) sorry I nipped you.
I'm (not really) sorry about the vet bill.
I'm (not really) sorry you were late to work because you could not find me.
However
Thank you for making me a part of your life.
Thank you for accepting me for what I am.
Thank you for your love and understanding.
Please remember - I'm a ferret.