Ferret First Aid

<body> <center><a name="QuickMark"></a> <table border="10" cellspacing="3" cellpadding="3" width="90%" bgcolor="#000000"> <tr align="CENTER" valign="CENTER"> <td align="CENTER" valign="CENTER"><b><i><font color="#FFFFFF" point-size="48" size="7">Ferret First Aid</font></i></b></td> <td align="CENTER" valign="CENTER"> <img src="../../images/belle04.jpg" alt="West Valley Wuzzles!" width="99" height="120"><br> <b><font color="#FFFFFF"><a href="../index.htm">Home Page</a></font></b><br> <b><font color="#FFFFFF"><a href="index.htm">Documents Page</a></font></b></td> </tr> </table> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Building Your Own Ferret First Aid Kit</font></i></b><br> <b>by Meg Carpenter</b><br> <font size="-1">[reprinted from Independent Ferret News Service Vol I. No. 1 Copyright 1997 ACME Ferret Company all rights reserved]</font> <p><font size="-1">When you acquire that energetic and playful ferret, it is hard to perceive that an illness or accident or other emergency might occur. Certainly, it is to be hoped that nothing will happen, but just as you might keep aspirin or other remedies in case of your headache or illness, it is wise to be prepared to care for a ferret illness ahead of time.</font> <p><font size="-1">There are many causes for a ferret to become ill - from simple head cold to ingesting something that won't pass through the digestive tract, or variety of other problems. Whenever your ferret shows signs of illness, or lethargy, or is not eating/drinking or eliminating - it is imperative to take your ferret to his/her veterinarian at once.</font> <p><font size="-1">However, because of the ferret's relatively rapid metabolism; if they are not eating or drinking water as normal - they can quickly become dehydrated. In these cases it is better not to wait, but to hydrate! Unless you can get to your vet immediately, several hours might be crucial - especially if you are not sure when your ferret stopped eating.</font> <p><font size="-1">Also, a sick ferret can either run an elevated temperature, or show a drop in body temperature.</font> <p><font size="-1">Accidents can happen causing injury to your ferret. Thus, be prepared ahead of time.</font> <p><font size="-1">1. Write down your veterinarian's telephone number and office hours on a card and keep it posted near your phone. Find out who covers for your vet when he/she is not available or on weekends. If you have an emergency care facility in your area - keep that telephone number handy, along with instructions on how to get to the clinic.</font> <p><font size="-1">2. Find out who in your area is emergency ferret care knowledgeable and keep that name(s) and phone number(s) on the card. This could be another ferret owner friend, club, shelter/rescue or ferret "help" person.</font> <p><font size="-1">3. Keep on hand the following items:</font><br> <font size="-1">Infant Pedialyte (plain)</font><br> <font size="-1">Vanilla Ensure, Sustacal or Deliver 2.0</font><br> <font size="-1">Karo syrup</font><br> <font size="-1">Chicken or turkey baby food</font><br> <font size="-1">Large infant medicine dropper (5 cc's) or Infant medicine syringe</font><br> <font size="-1">NutriCal, NutriStat, or other easily digestible nutrient source recommended by your vet</font><br> <font size="-1">Infant rectal thermometer</font><br> <font size="-1">Heating pad</font><br> <font size="-1">Small sturdy carrier with warm bedding in it</font><br> <font size="-1">Neosporin ointment</font><br> <font size="-1">Hydrogen peroxide</font> <p><font size="-1">Another excellent add-on to your preparedness kit is "Ferret First Aid" by Ann Davis of ACME Ferret Company and Jean Wardell DVM. The booklet is available on the World Wide Web at http://www.acmeferret.com/infobank/ffaid.htm or may be obtained in hard copy as a bound booklet by sending SASE (55 cents) on a 6x9-in. Envelope to Ferret First Aid, P.O. Box 11007, Burke, VA 22009-1007.</font> <p><font size="-1">If your ferret is not eating or is showing signs of undue weakness and you do not know the cause, hydrate your ferret as much as possible until you can get to your vet (unless appointment is immediate). Use a mix of half Pedialyte/half Ensure (or similar) and feed orally by infant medicine dropper or syringe. Some ferrets will readily accept this mixture when offered. It is a good idea to give a small amount several times to your ferret while it is well so they will be accustomed to it. Most ferrets quickly acquire the taste. If your ferret does not readily accept this - you can feed by squeezing in a bit at the side of the mouth in front of the teeth. If your ferret fights, absolutely refuses this mixture or is vomiting - you must take your ferret to the vet or emergency clinic as quickly as you can.</font> <p><font size="-1">If your ferret feels cool and is lethargic, use a heating pad on LOW setting, well covered by bedding, to help stabilize his/her temperature. You need to check frequently to make sure the heating pad does not become too hot. Also, be careful to make sure the heating pad has no cracks, breaks or faulty wiring.</font> <p><font size="-1">If your ferret is hot or has elevated temperature; keep ferret from drafts or becoming "chilled" and transport to vet. In case of injury or suspected injury - it is important to keep your ferret warm, as still as possible in a small, contained space and transport to vet immediately.</font> <p><font size="-1">Superficial bite wounds or cuts can be treated by hydrogen peroxide followed by an application of Neosporin ointment. If the wound is deep or continues to bleed, apply pressure and transport to vet.</font> <p><font size="-1">The foregoing is brief. The point is to be prepared BEFORE you encounter an illness or emergency. Whenever your ferret exhibits signs of illness you should promptly consult a veterinarian. If you have symptoms you are not sure about, consult your vet or another ferret care person. But, never delay. [Editor's note: Ms. Carpenter, who is LIFE's national health coordinator, may be reached by email at ChaoticFer@aol.com or by telephone, for emergency consultations, at (703) 765-4353.]</font><br> <font size="-1"> By Ann Davis</font><br> <font size="-1">ACME Ferret Company</font><br> <font size="-1">and</font><br> <font size="-1">Jean Wardell DVM</font> <p><font size="-1">Copyright ACME Ferret Company,</font><br> <font size="-1">First Edition, January 1996</font><br> <font size="-1">Updated March 1996,</font><br> <font size="-1">September 1996</font> <p><font size="-1">Artwork-Ann Davis</font><br> <font size="-1">Cartoons-Kimberly Killian</font> <p><font size="-1">P.O. Box 11007</font><br> <font size="-1">Burke, VA 22009-1007</font> <p><font size="-1">This booklet is intended to fill a need in the ferret community and may be copied without direct permission from the publisher as long as it is copied in full with no changes made to the contents nor any sections/artwork removed. Sections may be quoted so long as proper credit is given to the publication and authors.</font> <p><font size="-1">A hard copy of this publication in booklet form, including the art work by Kimberly Killian, may be obtained by sending a SASE (55 cents postage) size 6" x 9" to ACME Ferret Company, P.O. Box 11007, Burke, VA 22009-1007.</font> <p><font size="-1">IMPORTANT NOTE:</font> <p><font size="-1">THIS MANUAL IS NOT INTENDED TO TAKE THE PLACE OF EXPERT VETERINARY CARE! IT IS ONLY INTENDED AS ASSISTANCE</font><br> <font size="-1">TO HELP YOU DETERMINE IF YOU HAVE A SERIOUS SITUATION AND HELP YOU MAINTAIN YOUR FERRET'S LIFE UNTIL YOU CAN OBTAIN MEDICAL ATTENTION.</font> <p><font size="-1">Ann Davis is director of ACME Ferret Company Rescue in Springfield, Virginia, National Coordinator for the League of Independent Ferret Enthusiasts, Ferret Coordinator for the Project BREED Rescue Directory, and Rescue Chair for the Ark Angels of LIFE Rescue/Shelters.</font> <p><font size="-1">Dr. Jean Wardell practices Veterinary Medicine in Annandale, Virginia. She has a large ferret practice and is interested in sonography, especially ferret cardiology. Dr.Wardell would be happy to answer inquiries from other veterinarians via fax (703) 941-5340.</font><br>  <br>   <p><b><font size="+3">Table of Contents</font></b> <p><b><font size="-1">The Domestic Ferret, an overview</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Designing a Cage</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Vaccinations</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Spay/Neuter</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Heartworm</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Diet</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Ears</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Grooming</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Exercise</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Heat/Cold variables</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Ferret Proofing</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Teeth</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Ferret First Aid Kit</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">RED FLAG SYMPTOMS OF LIFE THREATENING EMERGENCIES</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">-- Listed Alphabetically by Symptom</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Poison/ Vet Hot Line</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Highrise Syndrome</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">ABNORMAL SYMPTOMS REQUIRING EVALUATION AND ASSESSMENT</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">-- Listed Alphabetically by Symptom</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Temperature, taking</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Giving Medication, liquid/pills</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Artificial Respiration</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Moving an Injured Ferret</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Duck Soup for sick ferrets</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Caring for Sick Ferrets/Tips</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">The Basis For Good Nutrition</font></b><br> <b><font size="-1">Ferret Health & Vaccination Record - suggested form for each ferret</font></b> <p><b><i><font size="+2">The Domestic Ferret, An Overview</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">The domestic ferret in America today evolved from the European polecat and is the only domesticated member of the weasel family (mustelidae), which also includes mink, otters, skunks, and the endangered North American black-footed ferret. Domestic ferrets weigh between 1-1/2 and 5-1/2 pounds, reaching maturity at 9 months, and normally live 7-9 years. There are about a dozen distinct coloration patterns, including chocolate, cinnamon, sable, albino, and silver mitt.</font> <p><font size="-1">Ferrets are intelligent, resourceful, curious, frolicsome animals. Their characteristic play mode--arching the back, hopping up and down, and tumbling backwards with gleeful abandon--is sometimes called the "weasel war dance." They also make a variety of sounds, from a gentle clucking song known as "dooking" to a punctuated panting sound in the middle of rambunctious play. They are affectionate companions who enjoy interacting with each other, dogs, cats, and humans. Even if abused by a previous owner, ferrets generally respond appreciatively to gentle handling, and rescues quickly bond with their new human companions.</font> <p><font size="-1">Ferrets rescued from large mills are often not socialized and need to be taught that biting is unacceptable. This can be done by employing any number of 'nip-training' techniques as described in '<a href="niptrainingyourferret.htm">Nip Training Your Ferret</a>'.  Please, NEVER 'thump' your ferret on the nose!  As with any companion animal, it is not recommended that they be left alone with small children.</font> <p><font size="-1">They can be litter and leash trained, but if allowed to run free in the house, care must be taken to prevent access to cabinets, vents, under sides of appliances, and other potential danger points (pipes, containers of detergents or solvents) which their natural inquisitiveness may lead them to explore. For example recliners must always be in an upright position when ferrets are out. These gifted escape artists must not be allowed to venture outside except under close and constant supervision, for they have a poor sense of direction and cannot survive for more than a few days on their own. They should be kept confined to one room or cage when their human companions are not at home. Water and food should always be available. (Ferrets do not overeat.)</font> <p><font size="-1">It is important to vaccinate ferrets against canine distemper, which is invariably fatal to them. Young ferrets or "kits" as they are called should be vaccinated at 8-10, 12-14, and 16-18 weeks, with a yearly booster. There is also an approved rabies vaccination for ferrets.</font> <p><font size="-1">Female ferrets ("jills") must mate or die. If they are not taken out of heat by a male ("hob") or spayed, they will eventually develop aplastic anemia, which is fatal. Descenting, to remove the musk glands, is considered mutilation, and should only be considered when there is no alternative. Ferrets' teeth need to be cleaned, just like dogs and cats, and their claws, which are not retractable, should be clipped short like a dog's. Neither teeth filing nor declawing is considered humane treatment.</font> <p><font size="-1">Rescued ferrets, particularly when found out of doors, are likely to be suffering from malnutrition and dehydration. In a dehydration emergency, a 1:1 solution of Karo syrup and water, or honey and water, can be administered until veterinary care is available. Healthy ferrets normally eat high-protein dry kitten food, though some will eat bits of fruit or vegetables as snacks. They should never be fed bones, which can cause intestinal damage. Dairy products, which can cause diarrhea, should be avoided. A ferret too weak to eat can often be coaxed to drink a liquid food supplement such as Sustacal or eat a high-calorie paste such as Nutri-Cal. See Duck Soup Recipe.</font> <p><font size="-1">Ferrets are vulnerable to common respiratory infections, including colds and flus. They should never be given aspirin. They are also quite susceptible to heat exhaustion and heat stroke in temperatures exceeding 85 degrees, particularly in direct sunlight. It is essential to house ferrets inside, since they are vulnerable to diseases carried by wild animals and are often sought as prey by marauding raccoons. Ferrets that are kept out of doors often succumb to heartworm.</font> <p><font size="-1">If the opportunity presents itself, they will often swallow indigestible articles such as rubber bands or pieces of vinyl squeak toys, causing intestinal blockage. Persistent vomiting, loss of appetite, lethargy, and dehydration are indications of blockage; prompt veterinary attention is essential. Other symptoms warranting veterinary attention are blood in the urine, severe hair loss, breathing difficulty, inability to urinate, dramatic weight loss, lethargy and weakness, loss of color in gums, and constant scratching or chewing of the paws.</font> <p><font size="-1">Persistent hair loss may be a sign of adrenal carcinoma, a disease remedied by surgical removal of the affected adrenal gland. Drooling or staggering may be signs of insulinoma (a form of pancreatic cancer), which is treatable through drugs and/or surgery, sometimes prolonging a ferret's life for as much as 2 years, but is eventually fatal.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Designing A Ferret Cage</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">The cage is the most important piece of equipment you can purchase or build for a ferret. It must be escape-proof and big enough for a food and water dish, litter box, and nesting area, while allowing adequate room for the ferret to move around. A cage approximately 36" wide by 24" long and 24" high, so the ferret can stand up, works best. Wire sides are useful to ensure adequate light, which is essential to a good ferret coat and healthy animal. Avoid pressure-treated wood and painted wood that can chip off or be ingested, and NEVER use an aquarium. Some people advocate hanging a water bottle on the outside so ferrets cannot knock it over, but a dish of fresh water, which they like to clean their faces in, should always be available inside the cage.</font> <p><font size="-1">The nesting area should contain towels or old t-shirts, which ferrets love to hide in. Many ferrets love small hammocks that can be hung from the ceiling of the cage. Do not use cedar or pine chips anywhere near ferrets, as they cause respiratory problems. The new paper pellet litter is recommended.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Vaccinations</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Canine Distemper is fatal in ferrets. Kits should receive a series of shots at 8 weeks, 12 weeks, and 16 weeks, then a booster every year. We use Galaxy D which does not contain any unnecessary additives. There is also a USDA approved Rabies vaccine made by Rhone Merieux called Imrab. There may or may not be a quarantine period in your area. Ferrets so far are not known to shed the virus, but it is 100% fatal. Some states have enacted quarantine periods of 14-21 days. Known ferret rabies cases are rare. There are no known ferret to human transmissions.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Spay/Neuter</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Alteration of sexual status should be performed at 6 months of age. If these procedures are performed prematurely, endocrine and metabolic abnormalities have the likely potential of developing. Females are susceptible to a life threatening condition where they are unable to produce red blood cells subsequent to a prolonged estrus cycle of greater than one month. In a female the heat cycle is manifested by an obviously enlarged reddened vulva. This may look like a tiny bright pink donut located underneath the tail that has a reddish liquid central discharge. If a female in heat is not mated or spayed and her estrus cycle continues for more than 4 weeks she will develop the metabolic condition previously described.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Heartworm Preventative</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">If you live in an area where mosquitos are a problem for a significant part of the year your ferret should be on an oral heartworm preventative. The dosage and frequency will be specified by your veterinarian.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Diet</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Feed a high quality dry ferret or kitten food with at least 32% protein. Ferrets also like a variety of tastes, preferring chicken and lamb. We mix three kinds together, alternating brands. Steer towards all natural foods preserved with Vitamin E and little star shapes. Steer away from pellet shapes or fish based food. Many ferrets also like fresh fruits including dates and raisins and some vegetables but cannot digest seeds or other rough hard foods, so care must be taken to remove them— for instance, feed seedless watermelon. All fruit and vegetables must be looked at as treats, not substituted for nutritionally balanced dry food. Limit amount of treats to one teaspoon per day. Food and water should be made available at all times. Ferrets as a rule do not overeat, but if you have an overweight ferret and have eliminated other causes, there are good reduced-calorie cat foods on the market. Please consult with your vet before placing a ferret on a restricted diet. For more information, see "The Basis for Good Nutrition."</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Ears</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Ferrets have naturally waxy ears which must be cleaned regularly. Any good ear wash will do. They are also susceptible to ear mites. Use Tresederm or any other similar product. Place a little ear wash on the end of a cotton swab and gently wipe the interior of the ear. Repeat several times. Clogged ears will become infected, causing hearing loss and sometimes loss of balance.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Grooming</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Bathing is part of good health for your ferret. Once a week is recommended due to the high amount of oil they produce in their skin. Any mild soap followed by a good cream rinse will do. When you wash them, you wash away the oils, so ferrets have a tendency to scratch; the cream rinse takes care of that and also cuts down on dander, which is a bonus if you have allergies. Use warm running water and rub dry with a soft towel. They will then run around the house much like a small dog trying to dry on every soft surface. If sharing the house with another outside animal, they can pick up fleas. There are good shampoos available with natural peppermint, or much stronger Pyrethrum- -as long as it is safe for kittens, these are fine. NEVER DIP A FERRET!</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Exercise</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Play and activity are essential to good health. Ferrets need at least 4 hours free time a day, more is preferable. A ferret will sleep about 18 hours out of every 24 in small intervals, but will quickly adapt to your schedule. A ferret that is caged too much will develop apathy and depression. This will result in their either refusing food or getting too fat, eating out of boredom. If a ferret has "love handles" it needs more time out! They are naturally curious and will entertain themselves, coming around often to seek you out to play. They are also good sleeping companions and like to snuggle under the covers at night, getting up only to use the litter pan or eat.</font> <p><font size="-1">Note: it is normal for a ferret to lose its coat and up to 30% of body weight every summer. If it is otherwise acting healthy, do not worry.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Heat and Cold</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Domestic ferrets should be kept inside. Contrary to lots of misinformation out in the public domain, they are not wild animals and have lost most of their survival skills. Ferrets can take the cold as long as they are kept warm and dry, so if your power goes off in the middle of a blizzard don't panic, just throw some extra bedding in with them. Remember, ferrets can catch the common cold, so prolonged cold stress or dampness will give you a sick animal.  Heat is another matter. They simply cannot take temperatures much over 85 degrees without getting dehydrated or heat stroke. A ferret's cage should never be placed in direct sunlight where it cannot seek shade. Never leave your ferret unattended in a car. even in a carrier, with the windows partially opened, it can rapidly succumb to heat stroke.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Ferret Proofing</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Ferrets are profoundly curious animals. Any small crevice or crack or drain pipe is an invitation to adventure. As you can imagine, they sometimes get stuck and can't get back. You need to stop up all holes under counters and kick boards, vents in the back of dryers leading to the outside, under refrigerators and stoves and so forth. Ferrets are great escape artists who would put Houdini to shame. Once a ferret gets out, it will travel and play until it gets tired or hungry, then seek human companionship for food and shelter. This can be one or two miles! Ferrets also love to jump into the ice box and dishwasher. They also like nothing better than to sleep in laundry baskets. So you must be very careful when doing laundry or other chores involving large machines. Reclining chairs are a death trap. In short, treat ferrets as if they were toddlers. A ferret's motto is, "If it's there, I should investigate it!"</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Teeth</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Teeth need to be kept clean and free from tartar just as in dogs and cats. The dry food will keep the teeth pretty clean, but it is a good idea to get in the habit of checking teeth at bath time. Ferrets tend to chip their canines on various things. A small chip off the tip is not a worry, but if the tooth looks like it is missing by 1/3 you should take the animal to the vet. Young ferrets have bright white teeth. Older ferrets do get rotten teeth and they can be removed easily. The teeth begin to turn sort of transparent and more ivory with age. Bad teeth are easy to spot. They will be dark just like human cavities.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Ferret First Aid Kit</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Gauze bandage rolls</font><br> <font size="-1">Scissors</font><br> <font size="-1">Eyedropper</font><br> <font size="-1">Q-Tips</font><br> <font size="-1">3% Hydrogen peroxide</font><br> <font size="-1">Antibacterial ointment</font><br> <font size="-1">Betadine</font><br> <font size="-1">Vaseline</font><br> <font size="-1">Eyewash (.9 to .2% boric acid)</font><br> <font size="-1">Styptic pencil</font><br> <font size="-1">Kaopectate</font><br> <font size="-1">Karo Syrup or Honey</font><br> <font size="-1">Rectal thermometer</font><br> <font size="-1">Chemical ice pack</font><br> <font size="-1">Towels and washcloths</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Poisons</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Antifreeze (Ethylene Glycol)</font><br> <font size="-1">Motor Oil or other petroleum products</font><br> <font size="-1">Plant Intoxication-most common house plants</font><br> <font size="-1">Rat poison or bug bait</font><br> <font size="-1">Detergents or cleaning agents</font><br> <font size="-1">Snake bites</font> <p><font size="-1">Some of these have antidotes. You must first try to determine what the ferret has ingested, then call the Veterinary Poison Control 1-900-680-0000 There is a small charge for the call, but it is the only 24-hr Veterinarian-answered poison information service in the country. They are prompt and accurate. This is the service that your vet uses, and it could save an animal's life.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Highrise Syndrome</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Many animals are injured each year in falls from upper story apartments. Ferrets are no exception. They do not realize that the window screen does not lead to freedom but to death. Ferrets are pretty bold in their jumping and playing. To a ferret, just because it can't see the bottom doesn't mean it shouldn't jump!</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Taking Your Ferret's Temperature</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Shake down the thermometer. Coat it with some lubricant such as Vaseline. If necessary, distract the ferret with a treat and have someone hold him. Insert 1/2 inch into rectum, wait one minute, remove and read. Normal temperature range is 101-103 degrees.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">How To Give Medication</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Liquid Medication: administer with dropper or syringe in the side of the mouth; do not give too rapidly or forcefully. Allow ferret time to swallow or may risk the development of a life-threatening lung infection, if some of the medication accidentally enters the trachea.</font> <p><font size="-1">Pills: some ferrets will accept a pill in a raisin or grape, or with some Linatone or Ferratone. Tablets may be pushed to the back of the mouth near the throat; swallowing is encouraged by stroking the neck. "Pet pillers" are another alternative and are usually carried by veterinarians.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Artificial Respiration</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">For a ferret, this should only be done by an experienced ferret care giver, since the volume of their lungs is so small there is a great chance of rupture. CPR should only be done by an experienced ferret care giver. In such a small animal, overenthusiastic compression can cause fractured ribs and bruised lungs.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Moving An Injured Ferret</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Gently wrap in a bulky material such as a towel or pillowcase. A full body wrap works best. Ensure that the head is fully exposed to allow proper breathing. Seek veterinary attention immediately.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">DUCK SOUP, from ACME Ferret Co.</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Lucki Duck the Acme ferret is no longer around, but his soup recipe is still doing wonders for old and stressed ferrets. It is perfect for ferrets recovering from illness and surgery, or ferrets just too sick to eat. It is also good for nursing jills.</font><br> <font size="-1">One can Sustacal 8oz (this is non-dairy)</font><br> <font size="-1">One can water</font><br> <font size="-1">4oz dry food -soaked in enough water to cover and soften completely</font><br> <font size="-1">Optional-electrolyte water (really helps-comes in powder form), baby food such as chicken or mashed bananas</font><br> <font size="-1">Mix well, a blender is best, and it freezes in ice cube trays beautifully.</font> <p><font size="-1">Serve warm, let them eat their fill several times a day. If it gets too thick just thin with a little water. Once opened, Sustacal must be used within 48 hrs if not frozen. If you have a really seriously ill ferret, warm Sustacal can be given full strength.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Caring for Sick Ferrets</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Sick or injured ferrets dehydrate fast. Once a ferret "goes down" it is often difficult to bring them back. NEVER DELAY TREATMENT! Even when you think they are eating and drinking they may not be getting enough calories or electrolytes. It is always wise to hand feed when you are not sure. For really sick ferrets, hand feed every 4 hours. They have a quick digestive system. Everything they eat goes through their system in 4 to 5 hrs. Powdered electrolytes are one of the many "little miracles" we have found to work wonders in ferret recovery. The Acme ferrets receive electrolytes in their water on a daily basis.</font> <p><font size="-1">A sick ferrets needs to keep warm. Never put them on an electric pad! Plenty of clean towels in their cage and towel draped over the back and sides will provide a warm environment.</font> <p><font size="-1">Ferrets are very social animals and quickly become attached to you. The best thing you can do for a sick ferret is to hold it. Contact, and the sound of your voice are important to a ferret's well being.</font> <p><font size="-1">Ann Davis</font><br>   <p><b><i><font size="+2">RED FLAG SYMPTOMS: LIFE THREATENING EMERGENCIES (LISTED ALPHABETICALLY)</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Animal Bites/deep puncture wounds</font><br> <font size="-1">Bleeding</font><br> <font size="-1">Breathing, labored</font><br> <font size="-1">Broken Bones</font><br> <font size="-1">Burns</font><br> <font size="-1">Choking/Retching/Vomiting</font><br> <font size="-1">Convulsions</font><br> <font size="-1">Dislocations</font><br> <font size="-1">Drowning</font><br> <font size="-1">Ear Injuries</font><br> <font size="-1">Electric Cord Bite/shock</font><br> <font size="-1">Eye injuries</font><br> <font size="-1">Fainting or loss of balance</font><br> <font size="-1">Frostbite/Hypothermia</font><br> <font size="-1">Head Injuries</font><br> <font size="-1">Heatstroke</font><br> <font size="-1">Loss of Color of Gums and Nose</font><br> <font size="-1">Nose, Face & Jaw Injuries/nosebleeds</font><br> <font size="-1">Spinal or nerve injuries</font><br> <font size="-1">Unconsciousness</font><br> <font size="-1">Urination difficulties</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Animal Bites/deep puncture wounds</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Clean affected area with hydrogen peroxide. Do not apply any ointment to an injury which penetrates the full skin thickness.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Bleeding</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">If possible, stop any serious bleeding by using direct pressure and a styptic pencil or powder.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Breathing, labored</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Any sounds of harshness, fluid, or increased effort needed to inhale or exhale, panting or open-mouthed breathing.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Broken Bones</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Manifested by inability to stand without pain, support weight normally, or move or walk normally. Ferret may vocalize, cry, or make some other  unusual noise when picked up. There may be visible or internal swelling, with tenderness at the area affected.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Burns</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Non-chemical: apply cool compress, then light application of antibiotic ointment or aloe vera gel.</font><br> <font size="-1">Chemical: rinse with cool water, apply cool compress, followed by light application of antibiotic ointment or aloe vera gel.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Choking/Retching/Vomiting</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Many different causes which include foreign body in esophagus, severe gastric ulcers, foreign bodies in the gastrointestinal tract which may be partially or completely causing an obstructing internal bleeding of respiratory system (i.e. lungs filling up with blood which the ferret Coughs up and swallows).</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Convulsions</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Try giving 2-3cc Karo syrup or honey only if ferret is able to swallow. Ensure that ferret cannot harm itself on hard, sharp or dangerous objects.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Dislocations</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Swelling of any joint or limb, sometimes both. Restrict activity or immobilize in a towel until veterinary attention can be sought.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Drowning</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Keep ferrets away from water! They can only swim for a few minutes before succumbing to exhaustion. The amount of chlorine normally present in pools can be extremely irritating to a ferret's eyes.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Ear Injuries</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">May range from bites and scrapes to avulsions (tearing off of tissue). Minor wounds may be cleaned and antibiotic ointment applied. Stop overt bleeding with direct pressure. Never insert a Q-Tip deep into the ear canal, as rupture of the eardrum may result.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Electric Cord Bite/shock</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Burns of the lips and gums may be visible. Ferret may be lying on its side having difficulty breathing. The most common consequence of electric shock is pulmonary edema (fluid accumulating in the lungs).</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Eye injuries</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Can include scratches, perforating injuries, foreign bodies, chemical or contact corneal trauma. All are absolute medical emergencies.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Fainting or loss of balance</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Manifested by the ferret collapsing or showing weakness that is generalized or confined to the hind limbs. Could be a cardiac or metabolic problem.  Try giving 1-3cc of Karo syrup or honey, only if the ferret can swallow.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Frostbite/Hypothermia</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Gently massage extremities and body. Keep the warming process gradual. Heating pads may be used if kept on "low" and the ferret is checked frequently. Bluish or black discoloration of the skin or limbs is very serious.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Head Injuries</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">If ferret is unconscious or bleeding from ears/nose/mouth, keep horizontal and immobilized. Keep movement to an absolute minimum, since cervical  (neck) injuries often occur along with head injuries; too much movement may result in permanent injury or paralysis.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Heatstroke</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Never leave a ferret in an enclosed area in the sun without adequate shade. Never leave a ferret in the car with the windows closed... even with them open, ferrets can overheat easily. Immediately wrap in a cool, wet wash cloth. Freshen with cool water every couple of minutes. Repeat procedure until ferret's body temperature is below 103 degrees.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Loss of Color of Gums and Nose</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Gums and nose should be pink. Pale or white gums are a serious problem. May indicate internal bleeding or shock. Conversely, gums which are bright red are the sign of a serious problem such as toxemia (overwhelming systemic infection).</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Nose, Face & Jaw Injuries/nosebleeds</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">If nosebleed is minor, apply direct pressure using gauze tissue, etc. nose, face and jaw fractures or injuries are serious, and handling should be kept to a minimum. Transport ferret to the vet wrapped in a towel.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Spinal or nerve injuries</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Symptoms may include wobbly gait, tenderness, difficulty in breathing, or inability to move front legs, rear legs, or both.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Unconsciousness</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">If possible, take careful note so you can tell the vet whether ferret is breathing quickly or slowly, whether the pupils are dilated or very small, whether muscles are supple or stiff, and whether ferret is responsive to voices and/or touch.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Urination difficulties</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Straining to urinate, inability to urinate, producing small amounts of urine, or abnormal color to urine. May indicate infection, bladder stones, or urinary tract blockage.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">ABNORMAL SYMPTOMS REQUIRING EVALUATION AND ASSESSMENT BUT NOT LIFE THREATENING</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Animal Bites/scratches</font><br> <font size="-1">Constipation</font><br> <font size="-1">Diarrhea</font><br> <font size="-1">Drooling and or pawing frantically at mouth</font><br> <font size="-1">Hair Loss</font><br> <font size="-1">Insect Bite</font><br> <font size="-1">Itchy skin</font><br> <font size="-1">Red blotches on the tummy and or hives</font><br> <font size="-1">Sneezing</font><br> <font size="-1">Sprains and strains</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Animal Bites/scratches</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Clean affected area with hydrogen peroxide. Do not attempt to bandage area, ferret will not tolerate it. Apply antibiotic ointment. If not noticeably improved in one day, or if condition worsens, seek medical attention.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Constipation</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Signs include, straining to defecate, vocalizing when trying to pass a bowel movement, scant, reduced ,or absent stool volume, thin, watery stools. Administer Laxatone or comparable furball medication every 4 hours for 3 to 4 doses. If no improvement noted see your vet.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Diarrhea</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">A green stool is an indication of increased rate of passage of feces through digestive tract. Is acceptable every once in a while. A green stool, or one that is bloody, mucoid, dark, sticky, has worms or foreign material is definitely abnormal. If diarrhea persists for over 24 hours, seek veterinary attention as serious dehydration is likely.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Drooling and or pawing frantically at mouth</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Symptom of an insulin-secreting tumor of the pancreas or severe stomach ulcers. Signs may be indicative of an impending crisis. See Convulsions.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Hair Loss</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Rat Tail, the loss of all the hair on the tail, is a common sign of stress in a ferret. When the stress is eliminated, the hair will return with the next fall coat. Persistent hair loss, starting at the base of the tail and gradually moving up the back and over the entire body, may be a sign of adrenal carcinoma, a disease which is remedied by surgical removal of the affected adrenal gland. If left untreated this condition will eventually lead to death.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Insect Bite</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Clean area with antiseptic solution. Follow with light application of antibiotic ointment.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Itchy skin</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">May be localized or generalized. The causes include dry skin, dry environment, allergies, parasites or metabolic problem. Try bathing with mild shampoo followed by cream rinse allowing adequate skin contact time. Be sure to rinse thoroughly. If symptoms persist more than 48 hours see your vet.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Red blotches on the tummy and or hives</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Most likely an acute hypersensitivity reaction to an allergen which has been contacted or inhaled. Litter material is often a culprit. Try a different brand of litter and giving the ferret a bath.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Sneezing</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Usually occurs in clusters. Causes include dust allergies or cold. It is important to know that humans can transfer influenza virus to ferrets very easily. Therefore if you are exhibiting signs of a cold or the flu, use caution when handling and interacting with your ferret.</font> <p><b><i><font size="+2">Sprains and strains</font></i></b><br> <font size="-1">Reluctant to walk or bear weight or does so abnormally or with difficulty. Confine in a pet carrier or cage and restrict activity until medical attention can  be sought.</font><br>   <p><b><i><font size="+2">The Basis For Good Nutrition</font></i></b><br> <b>by Dr. Jean Wardell</b><br> <font size="-1">Sound nutrition translates directly into good health! Ferrets are carnivorous animals, meaning they are strictly meat eaters. In addition, they are characterized by an extremely high metabolic rate. The food that they consume is burned and the nutritional components used very rapidly. Therefore, regardless of age, ferrets should have constant access to food. They eat about 10 small meals over 24 hours. Ingested food is eliminated in 4 hours.</font> <p><font size="-1">Studies have shown that animal s offered a palatable diet will generally eat to fulfill energy needs. When these requirements are satisfied, regulatory mechanisms are activated which cause cessation of eating.</font> <p><font size="-1">Highly palatable food can interfere with the normal function of these mechanisms. Obesity is an uncommon problem in ferrets owing to their high metabolic rates. Occasionally, however, a ferret can become pudgy, usually after 3 years of age. If your pet is developing this "middle-aged spread," try switching to a diet which contains a lower percentage of fat.</font> <p><font size="-1">This leads directly into our discussion of fat and other nutritional requirements. It is important for ferrets to have a diet fairly high in animal fat (18-22% is recommended). It is also important for ferrets to have a diet high in MEAT protein such as chicken, beef, or liver. Fish based foods are not well tolerated or accepted by ferrets, and frequently result in vomiting.</font> <p><font size="-1">Moreover, fish does not have the proper protein or amino acids needed. This is because animals don't need protein per se. Rather they need the amino acids used to build protein. Ferrets can only use amino acids from meat proteins; they cannot use amino acid from plant proteins. A meat (chicken, beef, or liver, for example) should be listed in the first 3 ingredients on a label to ensure it has enough protein.</font> <p><font size="-1">Ferrets require 21 amino acids which are either manufactured metabolically or which are obtained from the digestion of food. This latter group is referred to as "essential amino acids"--the word "essential" here means that the amino acid must be obtained from the diet, as ferrets are unable to synthesize them.</font> <p><font size="-1">When reading the label, make sure the protein level is at least 31 or 32%. One exception to this is with older ferrets, where a higher protein content (>38%) may be detrimental to the kidneys.</font> <p><font size="-1">Many cat foods sold in grocery stores have cereal or plant proteins in their formulations and as such are not the best dietary choices. For ferrets under 3 to 4 years of age, the growth or kitten formulations of these diets are recommended, because of the higher fat and protein content. A mixture of the two is also acceptable, depending on environment, activity levels, etc.</font> <p><font size="-1">For ferrets over 4 years of age, the maintenance or adult cat formulations of the aforementioned brands are suitable. These diets also contain adequate levels of Taurine, an amino acid which plays an integral part in good vision (retina health) and maintenance of cardiac function. With recent advances in nutrition , there are now diets such as "Totally Ferret" to meet their unique nutritional needs.</font> <p><font size="-1">Another item to check on the label is ash content. Ferrets kept on diets relatively high in ash content have a predisposition to develop urinary tract problems such as bladder stones. The brands previously mentioned are all low in ash content.</font> <p><font size="-1">I suggest avoiding diets that contain Ethoxyquin, a preservative. Evidence indicates it is possible this compound may increase the likelihood of certain types of cancers in dogs, cats, and ferrets.</font> <p><font size="-1">Milk and dairy products should be avoided, including "milk coated" kitten foods. Diarrhea may result.</font> <p><font size="-1">It is perfectly normal that we like to spoil our ferrets. Some treats in reasonable quantities are acceptable. Do not give anything with bone or bone fragments. Cooked meat and egg are suitable to offer. Many ferrets love fruits and vegetables, but these should be limited, since they cannot digest or process fiber well. Again, diarrhea may result.</font> <p><font size="-1">A good rule of thumb is to limit any treat to one teaspoon per day. Some favorites include cucumbers, green peppers, bananas, raisins, dates, and melon.</font> <p><font size="-1">Avoid feeding foods that are high in complex carbohydrates or refined sugar. Ferrets cannot digest a lot of sugar, and such treats put a strain on the pancreas. Chocolate contains theobromine, which can result in toxicity. We may think that candy is dandy, but resist the temptation to share, no matter how much they beg or how pleadingly cute they look!</font> <p><font size="-1">[Reprinted from the Spring 1996 edition of THE INDEPENDENT VOICE ]</font></center> </body>